London Fever: Beautiful Kilburn
Despite living in London for over 20 years I knew next to nothing about Kilburn, in the capital’s north west.
I knew that Kilburn High Road used to have a great music scene but that’s now mostly moved to nearby Camden.
Any reference I did hear to Kilburn was usually dismissive. “Only a manic optimist could look upon Kilburn High Road and not feel suicidal,” wrote Tom Dyckhoff in The Guardian. “It’s going to take a lot of gentrifying.”
Even the relentlessly upbeat Time Out struggled to be positive about Kilburn, beyond the fact that “Hampstead Heath and Queen’s Park are just a short walk away”.
But of course, there is beauty if you look for it. Here’s a snapshot of Kilburn today:
Kilburn High Road
Kilburn Priory was founded in the 12th Century as a travel stop on the road between St Albans and Canterbury. Coaching inns lined this stretch of road, then known as Watling Street and now Kilburn High Road.
The inns became pubs and dance halls and Kilburn High Road became ‘Music Mile’, an inspirational live music hub largely thanks to its growing Irish population’s taste for a drink and a good tune. (Kilburn became informally known as ‘County Kilburn’ when Irish migration hit its peak here in the 1950s.)
Ian Dury named his first band Kilburn and the High Roads while Celtic punks Flogging Molly summon the spirit of its musical heyday in their song The Kilburn High Road.
The road is still buzzing today, filled with cafes, discount stores, pubs, ice cream shops, gyms and crossfit centres. Its many restaurants reflect Kilburn’s vibrant new multicultural mix of Irish, Afro-Caribbean, Indian, Bangladeshi, Pakistani, Eritrean and Ethiopian residents.
Kilburn High Road has little pockets of gentrification (bonjour Maison Vie) but this area’s still very much doing its own sweet thing.
The Black Lion
I asked Twitter users if they recommended anywhere to visit in Kilburn and @Ghoul_of_London replied: “Pop into The Black Lion for a drink, it’s stunningly gorgeous inside.”
He wasn’t joking. The ceiling and walls of this unique 19th century Kilburn High Road pub are covered in intricately carved red, golden and green panels that will take your breath away.
The Black Lion is Grade II listed, the kind of pub that makes any pint feel special. They serve food, including a mighty Sunday roast — definitely worth a look.
Apparently there’s been a pub on this site since the 6th Century. A couple of American tourists were checking into the Black Lion’s upstairs guesthouse as I arrived. Bet they loved the story about dandy highwayman Dick Turpin popping in for “a few jolly ales” before riding off on his next robbery.
Kiln Theatre
Opposite the Black Lion, this was the Tricycle Theatre until new artistic director Indhu Rubasingham refurbished and reopened it as the Kiln in April 2018. I’m sure that ruffled a few feathers in the theatre world, heh heh.
This multi-million pound two-year refurb added an extra 60 seats (bringing the theatre’s total to nearly 300 seats) and improved access for people with disabilities. The venue’s cafe and bar also got a sleek modern facelift, with some nice retro touches in its John Lyon Space.
I’m no expert but on having a nose around it looks like the Kiln’s established a fantastic welcoming community space. Its programme seems rich and varied, so think a return trip is in order.
Paddington Old Cemetery
Another suggestion from Twitter (thanks @LifeInKilburn) was to visit Paddington Old Cemetery, just off Kilburn High Road.
Opened in 1855, this large cemetery contains a Gothic-style chapel and some beautiful headstones and statues. Appropriately enough, Paddington Bear creator Michael Bond is buried here.
You visit the graves via a series of paths in the shape of horse shoe, making it easy to wander around the entire cemetery without realising. Like many English cemeteries, it is now completely full so spaces are being reclaimed for future burials.
The day I visited a massive tree had fallen between some of the graves. It was a windy weekend but an older cemetery visitor was convinced the tree had been purposefully felled.
“Such a shame — it was hundreds of years old,” she lamented. “Man always thinks he knows better than nature.”
Alexandra Road Estate
Now I‘m not certain it’s strictly classed as being in Kilburn but I had to visit the Alexandra Road Estate (aka Rowley Way) while in the area.
This unique social housing project is a stunning example of what architects with vision and flair are capable of.
Designed by Neave Brown in 1978, it comprises 520 apartments, most set back back in a low “ziggurat” style with their own balcony garden leading down to communal car-free walkways and play areas.
A higher eight-story block shields some of the noise and vibration from the adjacent railway line. This iconic estate also includes a school, community centre, youth club and parkland.
Criticised for its high construction cost compared to neighbouring tower blocks, the Alexandra Road Estate was nevertheless granted a Grade II listing in 1993. Brown was awarded the Royal Gold Medal of the Royal Institute of British Architects in 2017, shortly before he died.
Residents of the Alexandra Road Estate explain its unique appeal (and challenges) in the warm-hearted documentary One Below the Queen.
• This is just a quick snapshot of Kilburn — please feel free to tell me what I’ve missed.
